Question 1

How much is my home worth?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

Your home is worth what a qualified buyer will actually pay for it today — not what you paid, not what Zillow says, not what your neighbor got two years ago. Online estimates like Zestimates are a rough starting point, often off by 5 to 20% since they can't see your home's actual condition. The real answer comes from a Comparative Market Analysis, or CMA, where your agent pulls recent comparable sales, current competition, and pending deals to build a price grounded in real market evidence — that's the gold standard for pricing to sell. A formal appraisal follows similar logic with stricter methodology. What actually moves your value is location, size and layout, condition and updates, and recent comparable sales — not what you paid, what you owe, or what you need to net for your next purchase. Ask your agent for a CMA; it's the real number, not a guess.

Question 2

How is commission determined when selling my home?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

Commission is always negotiable — there's no legally set rate or industry standard, despite what people assume. It's a private agreement you make with your listing agent, written into your listing agreement before the home goes on market. Historically, total commission has run in the 5 to 6% range, though that's shifted since 2024's changes to how buyer-agent compensation is handled, and rates vary more now depending on the market and service level. That total is typically split between the listing brokerage and the buyer's agent who brings the buyer. What actually moves the rate is price point, market conditions, service level, and how complex the property is to sell. The real question isn't just the rate — it's what you're getting for it, so ask your agent to walk through their marketing and pricing plan.

Question 3

Should I use a REALTOR® or sell my home myself?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

You can sell it yourself — it's called FSBO — but the data doesn't favor it for most sellers. On a $500,000 home, skipping a 3% listing commission looks like $15,000 saved, but FSBO homes consistently sell for less than agent-listed ones, often erasing that savings and then more. You'll typically still offer the buyer's agent 2–3% to get showings, and FSBO listings don't automatically reach the MLS, Zillow, or Realtor.com, which limits buyer traffic. A good agent earns their fee through pricing strategy, professional marketing, negotiation, and managing the disclosures, contingencies, and appraisal or title issues that can sink a deal — plus legal protection that varies significantly by state. FSBO can work if you already have a buyer lined up, you're in a hot market with easy-to-comp inventory, or you have real prior experience negotiating contracts. It usually backfires on unique or hard-to-price homes, slower markets, or anything with legal complexity like an estate or tenant situation. A strong agent who nets you more on price often ends up cheaper than doing it alone.

Question 4

Should I repaint before selling?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

Usually, yes — it's one of the cheapest, highest-return things you can do before listing. Fresh, neutral paint signals move-in-ready, photographs far better than tired or bold walls, and typically returns more than 100% of its cost at sale. Definitely repaint if you've got bold or dark colors, accent walls, visible scuffs and nail holes, smoke staining, or dated trim — these narrow your buyer pool and read poorly in photos. You can usually skip it if your walls are already clean, neutral, and in good shape, or if you're selling as-is or as a fixer. Stick to warm neutrals — warm whites and soft greiges test best right now, not cool grays or stark white. For a full repaint, budget roughly $2 to $6 per square foot, and always do it before your listing photos are taken.

Question 5

Should I replace the carpet or flooring?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

Usually yes — fresh flooring pays for itself. It's one of the first things buyers notice, and worn or stained carpet can tank an offer faster than almost anything else cosmetic. Buyers mentally add in replacement cost and almost always overestimate it, so skipping a $3,000 carpet job can cost you $8,000 to $10,000 in price or negotiated credits. Go neutral and mid-grade — light gray or beige with decent padding shows and photographs well; premium carpet won't get recouped. For hardwood that just needs a refinish, that's almost always worth doing, and swapping tired carpet for LVP in main living areas is a strong move in today's market. If the flooring's dated but clean and you're pricing aggressively in a hot market, a flooring allowance at closing can work instead — though it rarely fully offsets buyers' reaction to ugly floors in person. Start with a professional deep clean; sometimes that's all it needs.

Question 6

How important is curb appeal?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

More than most sellers realize. Buyers form an opinion of your home within seconds of seeing it — often before they're out of the car — and that first impression colors everything that follows. It matters online too, since your exterior photo is usually what decides whether buyers click into your listing at all. The good news is curb appeal is one of the cheapest, highest-ROI fixes available: mow and freshen the landscaping, paint the front door and update the hardware, pressure wash the driveway and siding, fix up exterior lighting, and add a few seasonal touches. Keep it clean and neutral rather than personal or trendy — you want buyers picturing themselves there. A weekend and a few hundred dollars here often pays back many times over.

Question 7

Should I stage my home?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

Almost always yes, in some form — it's one of the most reliably profitable things you can do before listing. Staging exists on a spectrum: at minimum, get a staging consultation, typically $150 to $500, where a professional walks the home and gives you a punch list of what to move, remove, or add — you do the work, and it's usually the single highest-ROI staging option. From there it scales up to partial staging, where a stager adds pieces to what you own, or full staging, which is close to essential for a vacant home since empty rooms photograph poorly and feel smaller. Most buyers genuinely struggle to picture furniture and flow in an empty or awkward space, and industry data consistently shows staged homes sell faster and for more. If budget's tight, prioritize the living room, kitchen, primary bedroom, and primary bath.

Question 8

Is professional photography worth it?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

Yes — it's probably the highest-ROI dollar you'll spend prepping your home for market. Over 95% of buyers start their search online, and the photos decide whether they click into your listing or scroll past it in about two seconds. Professional photography gets the lighting, angles, and color right in a way phone photos usually can't, and studies consistently show professionally photographed listings sell faster and for more — sometimes several percentage points on price. On a $500,000 home, even a 1% lift is $5,000, against a photography cost of a few hundred dollars. For the right home, drone shots, twilight photos, or a 3D tour can extend that reach even further.

Question 9

What should I remove before showings?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

Think of it as editing, not emptying — the goal is a neutral space buyers can picture themselves in, not a museum of your life. Start with personal items: family photos, awards, and anything monogrammed or personalized, packed away everywhere. Then declutter: clear countertops down to almost nothing, empty the entryway and closets by a third to a half so storage looks generous, and put away mail, laundry, and daily clutter. Bathrooms should go hotel-clean — toiletries tucked away, fresh towels out. Secure valuables, medications, and any sensitive documents before every showing. If you have pets, take them with you when possible and do a quick odor and hair check beforehand. A simple trick: keep a bin in a closet for daily-life items that sweeps everything out of sight in ten minutes before a showing.

Question 10

How do I choose the right listing agent?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

Interview at least two or three agents — don't just hire the first name you're handed; you're picking a partner for the biggest transaction of your year. Look for a real local track record in your neighborhood and price range, a list-to-sale price ratio and days-on-market that beat the area average, and a pricing strategy backed by a written CMA rather than just a flattering number to win the listing. Ask about their marketing plan — professional photos, MLS syndication, social, buyer-agent outreach — and make sure their communication style matches what you want. Be wary of an agent who suggests the highest price with no data behind it, pressures you to sign a long agreement, or has no backup when they're unavailable. Ask for references from recent sellers, and trust your gut on chemistry — you'll be in close contact for 30 to 90 days.

Question 11

How do I know if an agent is experienced?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

Experience isn't just years in the business — it's transactions closed, market knowledge, and how they handle hard moments. Ask about deal volume, not tenure: how many transactions did they close last year, and how many in this specific area or price range? An agent who's closed 30 homes in two years has seen more than one who's had a license for 15 years but closes a handful annually. Look for local specialization — knowing your neighborhood's comps, school reputations, and HOA quirks wins negotiations that general market knowledge can't. Check their list-to-sale price ratio, average days on market, and ask for references from clients in the last six to twelve months, not curated favorites from years back. Ask them to walk you through a deal that almost fell apart and how they saved it — experienced agents have real stories ready. And watch how they handle hard truths: a good agent will tell you when your price expectations are unrealistic or an offer isn't as strong as it looks. Specific numbers and specific stories tell you more than a polished pitch.

Question 12

How should my agent market my home?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

A good agent runs a full campaign, not just an MLS listing. It starts with pricing — a Comparative Market Analysis to set a price that attracts strong interest from day one — paired with prepping the home to show well. From there: professional photography at minimum, often video, drone shots, or a 3D tour depending on the home; compelling listing copy, not just a features list; and a complete, accurate MLS entry, since that's what feeds Zillow, Redfin, and every other site. Beyond that, expect targeted social media promotion, email outreach to other agents with matching buyers, open houses and broker previews, and active networking within the local agent community. You should also get regular updates — weekly is standard — covering showings, online views, and feedback, with a recommendation if something needs to change.

Question 13

What is a Comparative Market Analysis (CMA)?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

A CMA is how your agent figures out what your home is actually worth in today's market — not a Zillow guess, and not what you paid for it. It starts with recent comparable sales, or "comps": homes near yours that are similar in size, age, condition, and features, ideally sold in the last 3 to 6 months. Your agent adjusts for the differences — an extra bedroom, a finished basement, a smaller lot, an updated kitchen — and also looks at active listings (your current competition) and pending or expired listings (what's moving and what's priced wrong). The output is a suggested price range and a strategy: list at the top, the middle, or slightly under to drive competition. A CMA isn't an appraisal — it's a market-based pricing tool, and it's the single most important thing your agent brings to the table before you list.

Question 14

Is Zillow's Zestimate accurate?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

Treat it as a starting point, not a valuation. Zillow's own numbers show the Zestimate lands within 5% of sale price about 80% of the time for on-market homes — but for off-market homes that accuracy drops sharply, often closer to 50/50 with a median error near 7%. On a $500,000 home, 7% is a $35,000 swing, easily the difference between a great sale and leaving money on the table. It's an algorithm built on public records and past sales, so it can't see your renovated kitchen, a busy road out front, or what buyers are actually paying in your neighborhood this week. It works best in large subdivisions with lots of similar recent sales, and worst on custom, rural, or recently renovated homes. Use it as one data point alongside a real comparative market analysis from an agent who's actually walked the house — never as your listing price.

Question 15

Should I sell before buying, or buy before selling?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

There's no universal right answer — it comes down to your finances, your market, and your risk tolerance. Selling first is the financially safer route: you know your exact equity, you're not carrying two mortgages, and you can make a stronger, contingency-free offer on your next home. The tradeoff is you may need temporary housing or a rent-back if you find your next place after closing. Buying first solves that housing gap, but means qualifying for both mortgages at once, or leaning on a bridge loan or HELOC — and carrying two payments if your old home takes a while to sell. In a hot market, selling first tends to be easier; in a slower one, buying first can be safer. Talk with your agent and lender about which fits your situation.

Question 16

Should I rent my home instead of selling?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

There's no universal answer — it depends on your finances, goals, and appetite for being a landlord. The case for renting: if rent comfortably covers your mortgage, taxes, insurance, HOA, and a maintenance and vacancy reserve with real profit left over, you keep upside on appreciation, tax deductions on the rental income, and a low rate that's hard to replace today. The case for selling: if it's been your primary residence for 2 of the last 5 years, you can exclude up to $250,000 in gains ($500,000 married) tax-free — rent it too long and you lose that window, which often tips the decision. Selling also frees up equity and avoids the real work of landlording: budget roughly 1% of home value a year for maintenance, expect vacancy between tenants, and figure 8–10% of rent for property management if you don't want the calls yourself. A common middle path is renting for a year or two inside the capital gains window, then selling. Run both scenarios with your agent and a CPA before deciding.

Question 17

What documents do I need to sell my house?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

Your agent and title company will drive most of this, but have these ready. Before listing: your deed and most recent title policy, mortgage payoff information, property tax bills, HOA documents if applicable, your state's required seller disclosure, and a survey if you have one. It also helps to gather permits and receipts for any renovations, warranties and manuals for major systems, and utility bills, since buyers often ask for them. At contract and closing you'll need a government-issued photo ID, your loan payoff statement, any required affidavits or lien releases, and keys, remotes, codes, and manuals to hand off. If the home is held in a trust, LLC, or estate, get the trust certification, operating agreement, or letters testamentary to the title company early — those documents slow closings more than anything else.

Question 18

What happens after I sign the listing agreement?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

Signing is the starting line, not the finish. In the first day or two, your agent collects property details, HOA docs, and disclosures, and gives you a prep punch list for decluttering and minor repairs. During week one, they finalize your list price, order professional photos and a floor plan, write the MLS description, and get the sign and lockbox installed. Once photos are ready, the listing goes live and syndicates to Zillow, Realtor.com, Redfin, and more within hours — your first one to two weeks are peak exposure. Showings and often an open house follow, heaviest the first weekend, with your agent gathering feedback and reporting back. If showings are strong but offers aren't coming, expect suggestions like staging tweaks or a price adjustment. When offers arrive, your agent walks you through each one with a net sheet and helps you counter, accept, or reject. Once you're under contract, inspection, appraisal, and financing contingencies typically lead to closing in 30 to 45 days.

Question 19

What is an MLS listing?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

MLS stands for Multiple Listing Service — a regional database where licensed agents share homes for sale, and it's the backbone of how properties get marketed. When your agent lists your home, every other member agent can see it and show it to buyers, and the listing automatically syndicates to Zillow, Redfin, Realtor.com, and thousands of other sites, often within hours. You can't list directly as a homeowner — it has to go through a licensed agent. Off-MLS or ‘pocket' listings exist too, but they trade that wide exposure for privacy, which usually means fewer buyers and a lower final price. Getting your home properly listed on the MLS is one of the most important things your agent does.

Question 20

What happens after my home goes live?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

The moment you go live, your listing syndicates within hours to Zillow, Redfin, Realtor.com, and every buyer agent with a matching saved search — so the first 48 to 72 hours are the biggest attention window your home will ever get. Expect a wave of showing requests, especially over the first weekend when most buyers physically tour and open houses typically happen. Your job during this stretch is simple: say yes to as many showings as possible, keep the home ready at all times, and leave during showings so buyers can be honest. Most homes get the bulk of their showings in the first one to two weeks. If you're getting showings but no offers by day 10 to 14, that's usually a signal about price or presentation worth addressing quickly.

Question 21

Should I leave during showings?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

Yes, always leave — and take your pets if you can. Buyers need to open closets, linger, and picture their own furniture without feeling watched; when the seller's home, tours get rushed and shallow, and shorter tours mean weaker offers. It also protects your negotiating position — anything you say to a buyer or their agent, even friendly small talk, can be used against you at the offer table, so let your agent control the conversation. Even calm pets distract buyers and can bother allergic or nervous ones. Leave lights on and blinds open, secure valuables and medications, and give yourself about 15 minutes of buffer on either side since buyers often run early or late. The only real exception is a highly custom or historic home where your knowledge adds value — and even then, coordinate with your agent rather than just showing up.

Question 22

Can buyers take photos during showings?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

Only with your permission — it's completely your call. Buyers often want photos to remember which house had which features after touring several in a weekend, or to share with a spouse who couldn't make it. Some sellers are fine with that; others prefer to say no, usually over privacy of personal belongings or security concerns. Whatever you decide — photos allowed, allowed with restrictions like no photos of certain rooms, or not allowed at all — your agent should note it in the showing instructions so every buyer's agent knows before they arrive. The best defense either way is depersonalizing before you list: pack away family photos, mail, medications, and anything you wouldn't want a stranger to see.

Question 23

Should I host an open house?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

Usually yes, especially in the first week or two, but know what it's good for. Open houses maximize early exposure — casual buyers walk through without scheduling friction, they create a sense of activity, and they occasionally surface a serious buyer who hadn't booked a private showing. Manage your expectations, though: most homes don't sell directly to an open house visitor, and a lot of the foot traffic is neighbors and browsers months from buying — not wasted, since it builds word of mouth, but don't expect an offer that Sunday night. They matter most the first weekend live, in a walkable neighborhood, at an accessible price point, or to re-energize a listing after a price reduction, and matter less for luxury or unique properties and markets where buyer's agents dominate. Keep the home immaculate, secure valuables and medications, leave for the duration, and make sure your agent captures every visitor's contact info — that follow-up is often where the real value shows up.

Question 24

What happens when I receive an offer?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

Your buyer's agent sends over a written purchase agreement — not just a price, but terms covering the earnest money deposit, financing type, contingencies, closing date, any concessions or credits requested, and possession date. Your agent walks you through all of it, and you've got three options: accept it as written, reject it outright, or — most commonly — counter on price, terms, or both. That can go back and forth a few rounds. If you've got multiple offers, your agent may set a highest-and-best deadline so everyone submits their strongest terms by a set time. Once both sides sign, you're under contract, and the inspection, appraisal, and financing process begins.

Question 25

How do I compare multiple offers?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

Great problem to have, but the highest number isn't always the best offer — focus on net proceeds and probability of closing. Start with net, not price: subtract seller concessions, closing cost credits, and repair credits, since a $520,000 offer with $15,000 in credits nets the same as a clean $505,000 offer. Then weigh financing strength — cash and fully underwritten conventional buyers close most reliably, FHA and VA are valid but carry stricter appraisal standards, and home-sale contingencies are riskiest since two deals have to go right instead of one. Look at terms too: a bigger earnest money deposit signals commitment, a waived or gap-covered appraisal removes risk, and the right close date is whichever fits your next move. A few tactics help — ask for highest and best by a deadline, counter the strongest offer to make it even stronger, and always put the runner-up in a signed backup position. Your agent should build a side-by-side comparison and verify financing with every lender. The best offer is rarely the loudest one — it's the one that puts the most money in your pocket with the best odds of closing.

Question 26

Is the highest offer always the best offer?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

No — and this might be the most important thing to understand with multiple offers on the table. The contract price is just a promise; what you actually collect depends on whether the deal survives the appraisal, whether the buyer renegotiates after inspection, and what credits or concessions come out at closing. A $520,000 offer with weak financing, heavy contingencies, and a slow close can easily net less than a clean $505,000 cash offer that closes in two weeks. Look at financing strength, how many contingencies are attached, the closing timeline, and any credits requested — then compare on net proceeds and likelihood of actually closing, not just the sticker price. Your agent should build a side-by-side so you're comparing real numbers, not headlines.

Question 27

What is an escalation clause?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

It's a tool buyers use in competitive markets to automatically outbid other offers, up to a set ceiling. For example: a $500,000 base offer that escalates $5,000 over any competing offer, capped at $550,000 — so if your next-best offer is $520,000, this buyer's price jumps to $525,000 automatically. As a seller, escalation clauses can push your final price higher when you've got real competition, but a few things to know: most require you to show proof of the competing offer, they only work against genuine offers, and the cap — not the starting price — is the number that actually matters. They can also complicate a highest-and-best strategy, since the buyer's ceiling is already revealed. And remember, escalating price doesn't fix weak financing or heavy contingencies elsewhere in the offer.

Question 28

Can I reject a full-price offer?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

Yes — a full-price offer doesn't obligate you to accept. Your list price is an invitation for offers, not a binding commitment, and until you sign a purchase agreement there's no contract. You can reject any offer for nearly any reason, as long as it's not discriminatory under fair housing law. Sellers often decline full-price offers over weak financing, heavy contingencies, a bad closing timeline, or big concession requests — or simply because a stronger offer came in. You don't have to reject outright, either — you can counter on terms like closing date or contingencies instead.

Question 29

Can I negotiate with multiple buyers?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

Yes, and when you've got more than one offer, how you handle it affects your final price. You generally have a few paths: accept the strongest offer outright, counter just one and let the others go, counter multiple buyers at once (legal in most states, but risky — you can only end up under contract with one, so this needs careful wording), or ask everyone for their highest and best offer by a set deadline, which is the most common approach and tends to push price and terms up. A few ground rules: you don't have to share other offers' details, be fair and consistent with every buyer's agent, and remember price isn't everything — a clean offer with strong financing often beats a slightly higher one with more risk. Move decisively; dragging it out can cause buyers to walk.

Question 30

Should I accept a cash offer?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

Often, yes — cash offers carry real advantages: no financing contingency to fall through, no appraisal requirement, a faster close, and generally fewer contingencies overall. That's often worth accepting somewhat below a comparable financed offer — how much depends on your market, roughly 2 to 5% in stable markets, more if appraisal risk is high or you need to close quickly. That said, cash isn't automatically the winning offer. If the price gap is large enough, or the financed buyer has a strong, fully underwritten pre-approval with a solid down payment, that offer can still net you more. Always verify a cash offer with real proof of funds — a bank or brokerage statement, not a screenshot — before treating it as cash.

Question 31

How important is the buyer's financing?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

Hugely — sometimes more than price itself, because it determines whether the deal actually closes and how much risk you're carrying along the way. Cash is the strongest position: no lender, no appraisal requirement, fastest close. A conventional loan with 20%+ down is solid and reliable. Lower down payments and FHA or VA loans come with stricter appraisal and condition standards, which means more friction and a higher chance of required repairs — nothing wrong with those buyers, but more can go sideways. The riskiest structure is a home-sale contingency, where the buyer's ability to close depends on selling their own home first. It's also worth knowing the difference between a quick pre-qualification and a fully underwritten pre-approval — the second is nearly as strong as cash. Your agent should call the buyer's lender directly on any serious offer.

Question 32

What happens if the buyer backs out or financing falls through?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

It depends on when they walk and why. Inside a contingency window — inspection, appraisal, or financing — the buyer can typically cancel and get their earnest money back; that's the deal working as designed. Once those contingencies are removed, though, a buyer who walks is in default, and you're usually entitled to keep the earnest money as liquidated damages, though most sellers just take the deposit and relist rather than pursue other remedies. If financing falls through before that contingency expires, the buyer walks clean; if it happens after — because they changed jobs, opened new credit, or misrepresented something — that's typically a default and the money is yours. From there, get back on the market quickly, disclose that the prior deal fell through and why if inspection issues came up, and reuse that inspection report to price accurately. Homes that come back on market often sell within weeks — buyers know a fall-through isn't always about the house.

Question 33

What happens if the appraisal comes in low?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

The lender will only loan against the appraised value, not your contract price, so a low appraisal creates a gap that has to get closed somehow. You've got a few options: the buyer can bring extra cash to cover the difference, you can reduce your price to match, you can meet in the middle, or — if you believe the appraisal missed good comps or has factual errors — your agent can request a Reconsideration of Value with the buyer's lender. If none of that works and the buyer has an appraisal contingency, they can walk away with their earnest money back. Which option makes sense depends on how strong the market is, how motivated your buyer is, whether they waived their appraisal contingency, and how big the gap actually is. A small gap almost always gets solved; a large one is harder. Talk with your agent before reacting.

Question 34

Can I challenge a low appraisal?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

Yes — the formal process is called a Reconsideration of Value, or ROV, and it's submitted through the buyer's lender, since you don't directly own the appraisal. It works best when you can point to something specific: comparable sales the appraiser missed, factual errors like wrong square footage, or updates and improvements that weren't credited. It's much weaker if your case is just ‘the market is hot' or ‘we had higher offers' — appraisers need evidence, not disagreement. Your agent typically builds the package — better comps, corrections, documentation — and submits it through the buyer's agent to the lender. Realistically, full reversals are uncommon, partial adjustments happen more often, and many appraisals simply get upheld. Worth pursuing when your case is strong, but have a backup plan ready in parallel.

Question 35

What happens during the inspection?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

A home inspection is a 2 to 4 hour evaluation of the property, paid for by the buyer, that happens shortly after you go under contract. The buyer's inspector runs the show, and the buyer usually attends for at least part of it along with their agent — you should plan to leave, pets included, and let them look freely. The inspector works through the roof, structure, electrical, plumbing, HVAC, interior, attic, and safety items; specialty things like pools, wells, septic, chimneys, and pest are usually separate inspections the buyer orders on their own. Within a few days you'll get a detailed report, and the buyer's agent typically responds by accepting as-is, requesting repairs or a credit, or in rare cases canceling within the contingency window. To prep: make sure the inspector can reach the attic, panel, water heater, and crawl space, replace burnt-out bulbs, test smoke and CO detectors, and leave utilities on. The goal isn't a perfect report — it's one with no surprises.

Question 36

Should I fix everything found during the inspection?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

No, and trying to usually backfires — inspection reports are exhaustive by design, flagging everything from a failing roof to a loose doorknob, but not everything is equally urgent. Fix what kills deals: safety issues, active leaks, electrical hazards, major system failures, and anything a lender or appraiser will flag, especially on FHA or VA loans. For the middle tier — cosmetic items, aging-but-functional systems — offer a credit at closing instead of doing the repair yourself; buyers usually prefer cash to choose their own contractor, and it keeps the deal moving. Ignore the nitpicks like a dripping faucet or a missing smoke detector battery. Ask the buyer to prioritize their top few concerns instead of responding to the whole report, get your own contractor quotes since buyer estimates run high, and offer a lump-sum credit when you can. One catch: anything you learn about the home now becomes a disclosure item to future buyers if this deal falls through, which often tips the math toward fixing it.

Question 37

Should I offer repair credits instead?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

Usually, yes — credits tend to be the smarter move. Instead of managing repairs yourself, you agree to a dollar credit at closing, and the buyer handles the work on their own timeline. That's faster, avoids disputes over workmanship, and caps your exposure at a fixed number instead of risking scope creep once a contractor opens up a wall. The exception is anything a lender requires to close — FHA, VA, and some conventional appraisals flag safety or habitability issues, like a leaking roof or missing handrail, that have to actually be fixed, not credited. Small, cheap items are also often easier to just handle. When sizing a credit, get a real contractor's bid rather than relying on the buyer's estimate, and check your lender's closing-cost credit caps — if a credit would exceed them, a straight price reduction may work better instead.

Question 38

What repairs are buyers most likely to request?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

The same categories show up again and again. Water intrusion is the #1 deal-killer — basement seepage, poor grading, or old stains, even dry ones, tend to trigger requests because buyers can't tell if it's resolved. Roofs over about 15 years get flagged for remaining life even if they're functional, and HVAC systems over 10–15 years often draw a request for service, a credit, or a home warranty. Electrical safety items are common and cheap to fix ahead of time: missing GFCI/AFCI protection, double-tapped breakers, older panel brands like Federal Pacific or Zinsco, and missing smoke/CO detectors. Plumbing issues — leaks, slow drains, an aging water heater, or older polybutylene or galvanized pipe — come up often, as do failed window seals, negative grading, and peeling exterior paint, which is a hard requirement on FHA and VA loans. In termite-prone regions, any sign of wood-destroying insects usually triggers a treatment and repair request. Getting a pre-listing inspection, servicing your HVAC, fixing the cheap safety items, and addressing any moisture before you list will head off most of this.

Question 39

Can I sell my house as-is?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

Yes, and it's a completely legitimate way to sell. As-is means you won't make repairs or offer credits for what the inspection turns up — it doesn't mean skipping disclosure. You're still legally required to disclose known material defects like a leaky roof or foundation issues, in nearly every state. To do it right: mark the listing as-is in the MLS, complete your seller disclosure honestly, and price the home realistically since buyers will factor in the uncertainty. Buyers can still inspect and still walk away during their inspection period — what changes is they can't come back asking you to fix or credit anything. FHA and VA loans have condition standards that can narrow your buyer pool toward cash and investor buyers. It tends to make the most sense for inherited homes, major repairs you can't fund, or when speed matters more than top dollar.

Question 40

Will selling as-is reduce my price?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

Often, yes — though how much depends on the home's condition and your market. Selling as-is means you won't make repairs or offer credits for what the inspection finds — you still have to disclose known material defects, that's the law almost everywhere. Buyers price in the uncertainty of as-is, so a $10,000 repair can turn into a $20,000 price cut, since they're covering their own risk. It also narrows your buyer pool, since FHA and VA loans have condition requirements many as-is homes won't meet. As-is tends to make sense for inherited homes, major repairs you don't want to fund, or when speed matters more than top dollar. If the issues are mostly cosmetic, modest prep before listing usually returns more than it costs.

Question 41

What is title insurance?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

Title insurance is a one-time policy that protects against ownership disputes tied to a property's history — things like an old unpaid lien, a forged signature on a past deed, a missed heir, or a boundary dispute. As the seller, you'll typically pay for the buyer's owner's policy — it's customary, though negotiable and varies by region. Before closing, the title company runs a search on your property, and if they find an issue — an old lien, a judgment, a missing loan release — it has to be cleared before you can close. That search is the most common source of closing delays, so the earlier problems surface, the better.

Question 42

What is escrow?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

Escrow is a neutral third party — usually a title company, escrow company, or attorney depending on your state — that holds money and documents until every condition of the sale is met, so neither side can back out improperly. It shows up twice in your sale: first, when the buyer puts down earnest money, typically 1 to 3% of the price, which sits in escrow until closing or gets returned if they cancel within a valid contingency. Second, and bigger, the escrow officer coordinates the whole closing — running the title search, getting your mortgage payoff amount, prorating taxes, preparing the closing statement, and disbursing funds once everything's signed and recorded. Standard escrow periods run 30 to 45 days. One important note: always verify wire instructions by phone using a number you look up yourself, never one from an email.

Question 43

What closing costs will I pay as the seller?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

Sellers typically pay 6 to 10% of the sale price in total closing costs, and the biggest chunk by far is agent commissions — often 5 to 6% split between listing and buyer brokerages, though post-2024 rule changes have made buyer-agent compensation more negotiable. Beyond that, expect title and escrow fees (roughly 0.5 to 1%), transfer taxes and recording fees that vary wildly by state, and prorated property taxes or HOA dues for the days you owned the home. Your mortgage payoff comes out of proceeds too, along with any concessions you negotiated — closing cost credits, repair credits, a home warranty around $500 to $700. In attorney-close states, add attorney fees. What you actually keep is the sale price minus all of that, so ask your agent to run a seller net sheet before you list and again with every offer, so you're working off your real bottom line, not the top-line price.

Question 44

How much money will I actually walk away with?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

Your walk-away amount — your net proceeds — is what's left after every cost of the sale comes out at closing, and it's almost always less than your sale price. The big deductions are your remaining mortgage payoff, agent commissions (traditionally 5 to 6%, though negotiable), and seller closing costs (roughly 1 to 3%, covering things like title insurance, transfer taxes, and escrow fees), plus prorated taxes and any buyer credits you agreed to. As an example: sell for $500,000, pay off a $250,000 mortgage, pay $25,000 in commission and $10,000 in closing costs, credit the buyer $5,000, and you're netting around $210,000. Ask your agent for a seller's net sheet before you list — it'll give you the real number for your home.

Question 45

What happens on closing day?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

Closing day is when ownership legally transfers, the buyer's funds arrive, the deed gets recorded, and you get paid — typically a 30 to 60 minute signing session for sellers. Bring a government-issued ID and every key, garage remote, and access code the buyer will need. You'll sign the deed, a bill of sale for any included items, and the closing disclosure or settlement statement, which itemizes every dollar in and out — review it carefully before signing day, since your agent should send it 24 to 72 hours ahead. Your net proceeds usually arrive by wire the same day or the next business day. One critical safety note: always verify wire instructions by calling the title company directly at a number you look up yourself, never one from an email.

Question 46

Can I stay in my home for a short time after closing?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

Yes — it's called a rent-back or post-closing occupancy agreement, and it's common. You and the buyer sign a short agreement alongside the purchase contract spelling out how long you'll stay, what you'll pay, and who's responsible for what — typically a few days up to 60 days, since longer than that starts complicating the buyer's financing. You'll usually pay the buyer's daily carrying costs, sometimes waived for a short stay as a goodwill gesture, plus a refundable security deposit. Nail down the exact move-out date with penalties for overstaying, the condition you'll leave the home in, who keeps utilities in their name, and that you carry renter's insurance while the buyer carries homeowner's. Rent-backs help most when you're closing before your next home is ready. They can also strengthen your offer with buyers who don't need immediate possession — so talk it through with your agent before you list.

Question 47

What if I want to end my listing agreement early?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

Start by rereading the agreement — it spells out exactly how to cancel and what it might cost. Most listing contracts handle this one of three ways: mutual cancellation, where you and your agent agree in writing to end it with no fees; withdrawal, where the listing comes off the market but the agreement is still in force, so you can't relist with someone else until it expires; or cancellation with fees, where you reimburse marketing costs or pay a cancellation fee. Watch for the protection period — a clause saying that if you sell to a buyer the agent introduced within 60 to 180 days after cancellation, you still owe commission; it's standard and enforceable. If the real issue is performance — no marketing, no communication, no showings — talk to the broker before threatening to cancel, since most brokerages would rather reassign you than lose the relationship. Ask first, escalate second, cancel third.

Question 48

What happens if my listing expires?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

It just means your listing agreement reached its end date without a sale — nothing more dramatic than that. Your home comes off the MLS, and most agreements include a protection period, usually 30 to 90 days, where the original agent may still earn commission if a prior buyer returns. From there you can relist with the same agent, switch agents, take the home off market, or explore renting it out. Before relisting, it's worth figuring out why it didn't sell — almost always price, condition, marketing, or how easy it was to show. Expect some outreach from other agents too, since expired listings are public.

Question 49

Can I sell my home while tenants are living there?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

Yes, and it happens often, especially with investment properties. If your tenants are on a fixed-term lease, it transfers with the property — the new owner has to honor it until it ends. Month-to-month tenants can typically be given notice, usually 30 to 60 days depending on your state. Your buyer pool shifts too: investors often want the cash flow a tenant provides, while owner-occupants usually want the home vacant at closing. The most important thing is communicating with your tenants early and treating them well, since they control access for showings — give proper notice, and consider a rent credit or moving bonus for cooperation. Check your local tenant-protection laws too, since some cities have extra requirements around notice or relocation assistance.

Question 50

Can I sell if I still have a mortgage, home equity loan, or HELOC?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

Yes — this is how most homes are sold. At closing, the title company requests a payoff statement from each of your lenders, and when the buyer's funds come in, those loans get paid off first, directly from the sale proceeds, before anything reaches you. So if your home sells for $400,000 and you owe $250,000 on your mortgage plus $30,000 on a HELOC, both get paid off at closing, and whatever's left after commissions and closing costs is your net proceeds. One note on HELOCs — you'll usually need to formally close the line of credit at settlement, not just zero out the balance; your closing team handles that. The one situation to watch for is owing more than the home is worth, which is a different process called a short sale.

Question 51

Can I sell an inherited property?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

Yes, inherited homes are sold every day. You'll need legal authority to sell first, which usually means the property has gone through probate or was held in a way that avoids it, like a trust or transfer-on-death deed — your estate attorney and the title company will confirm what's needed. If there are multiple heirs, everyone on title has to agree and sign, so getting aligned early on price and timing helps avoid headaches. On taxes, inherited property typically gets a stepped-up basis — its cost basis resets to fair market value on the date of death — so you generally only owe capital gains on appreciation since then, not the home's full history. A CPA can confirm the details for your situation.

Question 52

Can I sell during a divorce?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

Yes, and it's one of the most common outcomes in a divorce. Both spouses on title generally need to agree and sign the listing agreement and closing documents — if one refuses, a court can sometimes order a sale, but that's slower and more expensive than agreeing voluntarily. Talk with your divorce attorney before listing, since the timing of the sale can affect taxes and how proceeds get divided — married couples can typically exclude up to $500,000 in capital gains, compared to $250,000 for single filers. It helps to agree in writing upfront on listing price, which agent to use, and how proceeds will be split. Choosing an agent experienced with divorce sales makes a real difference.

Question 53

Can I sell a home held in a trust?

Marc Low · Accepted Answer

Yes — homes held in a trust are sold all the time, and buyers won't treat it any differently. The key is who the trustee is: if you're the trustee, you sign the listing agreement and closing documents in that capacity, something like ‘Jane Smith, Trustee of the Smith Family Trust.' If a successor trustee has taken over, the title company will usually ask for a Certification of Trust confirming who has authority to act, without needing to see the full trust document. It's worth looping in your estate attorney early to confirm the trust allows a sale, and talking with a CPA about how the sale is taxed. Beyond those steps, it's a normal sale — same marketing, same negotiation, same closing.

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